1-28-14 - Quit Buggin' Me, Man!

After seeing a good portion of Florida we're steadily making our way North! We decided to head to the Ocala National Forest to hang out for a few days before shooting up to Jacksonville. The next 3 to 4 days were supposed to be really cold, so we thought it would be good to stay in the warm areas till it heats up again.


Ocala looks very similar to Appalachicola, which is on a similar latitude on the West side of the state. Pines, white sand, and saw palmetto make up the majority of the landscape. We drove down a sand road that bordered a square of clear cut land and parked underneath the shade of the trees just as the sun went down.

By the time we had finished making dinner and cleaning up it was pitch black outside, and beautifully quiet. The only sounds we could hear were crickets, and even they seemed to be making an effort to provide soothing ambiance.


Dave had just stepped outside to hook up the generator when I saw his flashlight beam freeze and heard a startled “Whoa!”. I immediately sat bolt upright and asked what he had seen. There was a pause and then a very unconvincing “Nothing....” After scanning the ground with his flashlight beam for quite a while he stepped back into the van with a wide eyed, uneasy look. After a lot of prying I finally got out of him what he'd seen out there: spiders. My least favorite animal in all of God's creation. Apparently he had caught small bits of reflected light in the flash beam that turned out to be light shining back from their eight beady little eyes. I scoffed disbelievingly, as it seemed a bit far fetched. Ever so cautiously I leaned out the door of the van and scanned the area around us with the light. Evenly spaced, about every 8 feet, were a couple little pinpoints of light shining back, like dewdrops catching the sun. I relaxed, relieved that they must be exactly that, and just as turned to laugh at Dave...one moved. I nearly jumped out of my skin and let out a startled yelp. Gripping the light with both hands I wielded it like a police beam, and sure enough, there were the hideous reflecting eyes of a hundred ground spiders winking back at me.
Needless to say, sleep was a little slow in coming that night.

The next day we woke up and went about our business outside. Luckily our eight legged infestation vanished in the daylight, probably sleeping off a hard night of spider partying and crawling all over innocent people's faces. I took a walk to take in the peaceful natural settings and explore. I came back and sat in the van with Dave when suddenly Jax hopped up into the van with a pitiful yelp, shaking his back foot. We immediately grabbed it to take a look and saw four or five large red ants with huge pinschers clamped onto his foot, stinging him aggressively all the while. We cleaned them off and gave him some Benadryl to soothe the pain. These must have hurt much more than the small red fire ants he encountered before, because he sat grimacing in pain and licking at the area for quite a while. We looked them up and they appear to have been Imported Red Fire Ants, a larger and much more aggressive species. They're about 1/4" long and mean as Hell. We weren't able to get a good picture, so I borrowed this one from Google:

Thoroughly miffed by the insect population at this point, we started to make lunch. Some movement caught my eye and I noticed a little ladybug waddling across the window outside. “Awww” I said, smiling “I like ladybugs! They're the only insect I don't mind!” Little did I know exactly what was to follow.

So cute, so innocent.

We had just left for a short walk down the road when I heard a zipping sound and felt a light impact. I looked down and there was a ladybug on my leg! I smiled graciously, and carefully removed him. Suddenly there was another zip and impact, then another and another. We both started hopping around and swatting as a cloud of ladybugs began to form in the sky like adorable little locusts. We hightailed it back to the van, which had in the meantime had become coated in hundreds of ladybugs. We sat inside safely (or so we thought) and watched them swarm the outside. We both laughed in disbelief at the strange sight and wondered how long they would stay.

Just the beginning....

That's when things got serious... The little bugs found that they just barely could fit through the crack where the windows seat and began pouring inside in tens and twenties. I screamed like a little girl and began trapping them in cups and throwing them outside while Dave laughed at my antics. As fast as I chucked them out, they came crawling back in. I glared at him in a frazzled manor and said “We are MOVING.” He obligingly agreed and went out to secure the generator, which by now was absolutely covered in bugs. Now it was my turn to stifle giggles as they crawled all over his arms, hair, and back. I was supremely glad to be a woman about then, as bug-swarm recovery tactics fall strictly into the man's list of duties. He jumped into the driver's seat, still shaking off clinging bugs, and we got out of there as fast as we could. For the five miles to the exit of the forest the air was thick with flying ladybugs, dotting the windshield and clinging to the windows like zombies in a horror flick. “Let me innnnn!” they seemed to cry in tiny voices. “Love meeee!”

Waiting...watching...lurking in the shadows.

It's been three days and I'm still picking the odd straggler out of our laundry and bedding. And that's how we got kicked out of our campsite by ladybugs.

1-27-14 - Don't Put That In Your Mouth!

Here in Florida we've had the opportunity to try some really strange new tropical fruits. One of my favorite parts of travel is getting to try local foods where they are freshest-at the source! Just outside the Everglades we stopped at an outdoor fruit market with a tin roof that loudly proclaimed “ROBERT IS HERE” in big letters. Apparently that is the name of the market, although I never got the story behind who exactly Robert is.


We wandered around happily taking in the sights and smells, tasting samples of local fruit and honey. We left with a bag full of strange new fruit to try. We even caught this little guy taking a nap and keeping the pecans warm for us.

The first was a Canestel. It was soft and yellow, shaped a little like a Hershey's kiss. The inside had an incredible velvety texture, somewhere between custard and cooked squash. The flavor was almost exactly like a sweet egg custard. It was incredibly delicious!

This one was just too strange to not try. I'm not sure what it was called, as I forgot to write it down. But how could you not try such an alien looking little fruit?? It was really good, and tasted a bit like Midori melon liqueur.

Next we tried Sapodilla, which is also known as “tree potato”. A very fitting name! The description said it tasted like “a pear with brown sugar.” Despite the nondescript exterior, the interior had a firm pear-like texture and golden-pink flesh. Unfortunately, it stunk to high heaven and tasted so bad that I spit it out after one bite.

We tried again with a Black Sapote. This was easily the strangest thing we have eaten! It's sometimes called “The chocolate pudding fruit”. The exterior looks exactly like a large, green tomato. As it ripens it turns black and wrinkly and begins to seep black juice. At this point most people would throw it out as rotten, but this is when it's at its most tasty! When you slice it open the inside has few large seeds, which you discard. It has a great creamy texture and tastes like very mild, sweet vanilla. It's awesome!

The last was the Mamey Sapote. This is a huge favorite of the Cuban population in Florida. They blend it with ice cream to make milkshakes. Again, I was not a big fan, but I'm glad we got to try it! It had a texture a bit like squash, and tasted like fruity caramel.

1-25-14 - Blue Cypress Lake

After 4 days at Middleton Fish Camp, we had to head back into town for supplies and laundry. Luckily this gave me a chance to use the WIFI to upload some pictures!

The area we stayed on Blue Cypress Lake was simply beautiful. I saw more wildlife there than anywhere else I've been!

There are huge snail shells lying all over the ground, most likely dredged from the lake by birds and then dropped. Some are as big as your palm!

We went for a walk and found a path that went back into the woods. It's a true jungle here, dark and humid, with creeping vines and palm fronds everywhere you look. You truly have to be aware of 360 around you, lest something nasty end up crawling up your leg or falling on your head.

Like this guy.

Our last night, right before bed, I heard a loud splashing in the swamp and jumped outside to take a look. I caught a glimpse of a big, brown head poking up out and the water and suddenly a huge otter popped out onto the bank! He was rich chocolate brown, sleek, and much bigger than I expected. I stood and watched him pop in and out of the water, sliding through the mud like an eel and digging in the leaves.

1-21-14 - Everglades or Bust?

Bust.

We drove to Flamingo Campground, the farthest Southern point on the Florida mainland, to stay in Everglades National Park.

Unfortunately the campground was awful. Essentially a glorified grass parking lot with no privacy and the filthies bathrooms I've seen, we simply couldn't reconcile the $16 a night to park. We stayed one night and headed out in the morning.

We did get some lovely pictures out of it though!

The small beach at the campground at first appeared to be white sand, but on closer inspection it was entirely tiny little seashells. The one below shows the scale. The background is the fabric of my jeans!

We did see some cool wildlife amongst the mangroves! A tiny crab blended in perfectly to the trunk of the tree, and this little heron posed perfectly for me.

1-24-14 - Simmer Down

As I sit in the van with my bare feet out the window, the sun warms my skin and settles into my bones. Jax is laying in the grass outside napping, moving only to nip at the occasional fly that gets too bold. Dave is flopped on the bed, clean shaven and looking handsome, staring out the window daydreaming. My mental reflex kicks in and I start running down the list of things I need to do. It goes:

1. Think about things you need to do.

2. Draw a blank.

3. Smile contentedly.

4. Commence to simmering down.

We are at Middleton Fish Camp on the shores of Blue Cypress Lake. It's just north of Lake Ocheechobee, tucked far away from towns and highways. The owners of the camp are a couple in their 90's who have had the business for 40 years and counting. It's the only thing for miles around, a small bait shop selling shiners and worms. Outside is a covered porch with some worn rocking chairs and old patio furniture where you can sit and pass the time when the fishing's slow. On a choice cushion an huge old boxer/pitbull mix named Princess naps the day away, only waking up to inspect guests to the shop. If they pass muster, they get the honor of a lick on the hand before she settles back down on her cushion with a sigh.

The pace of life here is slow and steady. Anyone you pass will flag you down for a chat about nothing much at all. The paved road to the area just went in 5 years ago, so it's still a well kept secret. Two men in a golfcart stop and say hello as I peddle past on my bike, and proudly tell me it's the most beautiful place in the world. They both are born and raised here and wouldn't have it any other way. One proudly shows me a picture of his grandmother, who just turned 92 years old and looks as lively as a firecracker. "Ain't she something?" He says proudly "It's the lake water that does it. Keeps ya strong."

We're parked on a narrow strip of grass with forest on one side and a small canal, edged by swamp, on the other. The lake shore is a stone's throw away, and we can see whitecaps breaking beyond the shelter of the trees. The canal is black water topped with little green water lilies. Bluegill and crappie break the surface at all hours.

 I try my luck at catching some, but they're wise to my ways and stay away from my worm and bobber. I remember back to watching my grandpa tie flies and decide to try my hand. I find some black string, a small scrap of Velcro, and a turkey vulture feather, and do my best. 

Surprisingly it turns out good and looks quite close to the large black insects in the area. I throw it out and get a nibble, but the line breaks instantly. 

I decide to let the fish be and simply pass the time by throwing bits of gingersnap cookie into the water, where little fingerlings fight over it eagerly. 

The blue herons and robins have followed us here to Florida! The  Great Blue Herons patrol the waters like feathered  pterodactyls. Their wingspan is massive, close to 6', and when disturbed they rend the silence with an unbelievable Saurian squawk. It's entrancing to watch them stand perfectly still for what seems like eternity, their piercing golden eyes scouting for unsuspecting fish beneath the water. Alongside them are small white egrets, roseate spoonbills, and some type of smaller heron, a dusty dark blue.

Outside the bathroom I find these little guys, a sleepy gecko and a moth the color of pink lemonade.

At night we make dinner while the crickets and frogs start up their buzzing orchestra. The nights are crystal clear and I spin the front seat around and lean it back all the way, staring up into the sky, counting stars till my eyes start to droop and close.

1-18-14 - Big Gators in Big Cypress

This is it, folks. We made it!! We've been counting down the miles to Big Cypress Preserve and we are FINALLY HERE!

We made it in two nights ago at about 11pm. We crossed through a panther preserve on the way in, and our headlights highlighted 10 foot tall fences topped with razor wire all along the highway. Large signs read "Caution! Panther Crossing". It may seem intimidating to think of 150lb wild cats lurking beyond the low beams, but to me it was wonderful to see such a conservation effort for these incredibly endangered cats. The Florida Panther is a cousin of our Washington native, the cougar. There are less than 160 of them left in the wild.

We ended up on the worst road we've seen, stuck going 15 MPH for over 30 miles of washboard gravel. On the positive side, we have definitely shook loose any rust, dirt, or spare parts that might have been clinging on.

We ended up finding a campsite in the remote backwoods called Bear Island Campground. It was a beautiful spot with well maintained grass and private campsites, so we decided to stay for a couple days. I personally have had it up to the eyeballs with rude retirees in super-busses and massive idling diesel truck engines shaking our bed all night. At this campground, the night was quiet and we slept like babies.

The next morning I unloaded the bike my best friend bought me in San Diego, which has affectionately been named "The Pedal Pickle", after an old green motorcycle my dad had named "The Flying Pickle". I hopped on my trusty steed and took off for a bikeride to explore the area.

Florida has the most abundant and visible wildlife of anywhere I've been! I got to a gated road that let hunters and campers reach the wilderness areas of the reserve on foot. Once through, things got wild. The surroundings were flat marshes of brown grass and tangled greenery, interspersed with pools of crystal clear water. At the bottom of one pool I saw a big 5' alligator napping in the mud, totally still and silent but for the occasional bubble. In a neighboring pool little black ducks whistled and peeped curiously at me before flying away in a huff. Not much farther down the road I saw a thick, black shape in the road and I slowed to a stop at a safe distance. It was a big snake napping in the sun with a bulge in his gut that said he had just had a good meal. I got off the bike and cautiously sidestepped him.

After a while I started to head back when a Park Ranger in a big SUV passed me and waved. I saw him stop where the snake was, and he motioned for me to stay back.
"Hang on!" he hollered "There's a cottonmouth here in the road, didn't want you to step on it!" I thought back to how close I had passed the deadly snake and gulped.

Luckily, neither the snakes or the gators got me, and I made it back to camp in one piece. Dave and I had some awesome vegetable soup for dinner, then layed back and watched the stars come out one at a time.

The next day the sun rose early and hot, and I sat outside the van taking it all in. Suddenly Jax yipped and I saw he was staring intently up at the pine tree with both ears pricked up. I looked up to see a huge black turkey vulture perched not 15 feet up, cocking his head and watching us intently. He decided we weren't going to feed him or run him off, so he spread his wings open to the sun and made like a solar panel. The rest of the time we were there he was perched, driving Jax to distraction. He dropped a wing feather at one point and it was as long as my forearm.

The cypress trees that give the park it's name are everywhere. Their wandering branches all have miniature gardens on top of fern and orchids. I've yet to catch a glimpse of the Ghost Orchid, but I'm looking!

We left after the second night to try to get into somewhere that didn't charge. Apparently our campground used to be free, but now has a $10 charge per night. Being the broke adventure purists we are, we're off to seek greener pastures...or swamps.

On the way out a slough followed the road, and through breaks in the vegetation we saw more alligators than I could possibly count. Their ancient reptilian forms line every bank, from 5' to 8' long, black as sin and scaled in a way that makes me shiver. It's no exaggeration to say there must be millions in the state.

We went to Everglade City to use the wireless internet to scope out new campsites and get in touch with family back home. I've had some sad news about a family member that has hit pretty hard, and it's difficult to be so far away. I'm acutely aware of the fact I'm literally on the opposite end of the country, but I'm thankful to be able to keep in touch with modern technology. Despite the sadness, there is always humour to be found, even in the hardest of times. I've never seen a carving that looked so blissfully happy to be a saltshaker.

"Oh, you!"

I hope this brings a smile to my loved ones back home. I miss you all so much, and I love you more than words can say.

Travel Charms and Good Luck Birds

I thought it due time to include a little blurb about Travel Bird!

Here he is in all his feathery glory:

So what's the story with Travel Bird? Well, every travel culture has it's superstitions supposed to bring good luck and safe travels. Motorcycle riders tie a little silver spirit bell to their bikes to ward off bad spirits. Ancient mariners refused to set sail on a Friday because it was unlucky. Some people have lucky travel socks or underwear, or little angels hung on their rearview mirror. We have Travel Bird!

It's hard to say where his journey began, but I'll tell you where we found him. Dave and I were on a roadtrip in Montana, exploring some incredibly remote backroads in my Jeep Cherokee, and sleeping in a tent. We drove down an incredibly rutted and dry gravel road for miles and miles, hammering the suspension and rattling our teeth. There was nothing but dust in all directions, and we were just about to turn back when we stumbled upon an oasis in the desert! A reservoir was tucked away, miles and miles from nothing. We whooped with joy and jumped into the cool water for a swim. Against all odds, we saw a dust cloud rolling in, and another couple joined us. Their names were Charlie and Arlene, an old, wrinkled cowboy in a Stetson and his wife. They had a big truck with a camper on the back hauling a boat, and they planned to camp and fish here. They were so kind and friendly, Charlie took us out for a ride on his boat while Arlene fished for trout. Later, we all shared beers around a campfire and told stories. Before long I found myself well and properly drunk. I had stumbled off to throw some garbage in the bin, and when I looked down I whooped with excitement. 

"Dave!" I hollered "Check this out!!"

I had found an old pair of mounted deer antlers festooned with little handmade fake birds. Whoever had gone to the effort to bring this artifact all the way out to the middle of nowhere to dispose of will remain a mystery. This was obviously had been left here just for us to find and was the kind of treasure that couldn't be passed up, so as might be expected, we ziptied it to the front grill of the Jeep and it stayed there for the whole rest of our drive home. Charlie thought we were crazy kids, but he still smiled and sent us off with cups of hot coffee in the morning.

Later on the deer antlers became chew toys for Jax, but travel bird remained intact. He stayed with me in my Jeep while I owned it, and now he's earned himself a place of honor on our rearview mirror, where he gets rubs on the head for luck. 

We haven't had an accident or speeding ticket since he came along. Coincidence?

You decide. 

I'm stickin' with my bird.